The nose was a sweet celebration that embraced white chocolate, vanilla ice cream and squidgy fudge. Smoke crept in from the sidelines, initially through smoked toffee apples but then in the form of burnt waffles layered with streaky bacon. Singed driftwood with a coating of creosote pointed us towards more medicinal territory as we ventured onto the palate. Big and powerful, it ticked all the right smouldering boxes as we became enveloped in a smog of applewood smoke and rauchbier. Water flicked the salt switch to uncover seaside sensations and tarry fishing boats. The conclusion took the form of charcoaled pork with sage and layers of wood ash delicately covering heavy oak.